Evening in Samarkand

Samarkand is an hour and 45 minutes away from Bukhara by Afrosiyob HSR. Since we had time to spare before our train was scheduled to depart in the afternoon, we went back to hang out at the Ulugbek madrasa.

The Arabic script on either side of the entrance translates to “The aspiration to knowledge is the duty of every Muslim man and woman”. A concept that seemed to precede its time, because it is inclusive of women and seemingly puts women on the same footing as men.

Having learned our lesson at the Bukhara train station, we ignored and walked past all the “independent” cab drivers at the gate when we arrived in Samarkand. We made a beeline for the official taxis and picked out the driver who seemed the least interested in picking up a fare. The key is to AVOID ALL EYE CONTACT with the drivers who approach you. Once eye contact is made, it’s GAME OVER for you.

Samarkand is very different than Bukhara. Old Town Bukhara is quaint, laid back, and somehow stuck in time, while Samarkand seems even more frenetic than Tashkent. The tree-lined boulevards are wide and the environs very much westernized.

One of the Lonely Planet recommendations is to check out Registan and Amir Timur Mausoleum at night, which worked out perfectly for our post-dinner stroll.