Shah-I Zinda and Registan Light Show

Shah-I Zinda and Registan Light Show

Instagram hasn’t quite destroyed the travel experience to Samarkand, yet. There are plenty of people in the popular sites in town, but influencers would have made this city unbearable like many of the European cities that we actively avoid these days. Tour buses still disgorge plenty of people at each site, and when a place is as tight and narrow as the Shah-I Zinda, the crowd feels a bit overwhelming. Plus, twirling around in a bright red sundress in the cemetery doesn’t seem quite appropriate. Shah-I Zinda is a cemetery where the Timurid family members (minus Timur, Ulugbek, and a few other male princes) are laid to rest. It is also a place known for its beautiful mosaic tile work on the mausoleum walls.

Towering mausoleums flank a narrow passageway, creating a canyon atmosphere.
The Shodi Mulk Oko mausoleum is thought to be the most beautiful. Here lays one of Timur’s wives, sisters, a niece, and a grandson.
Ceiling
Across the way is the Shirin Beka Oko mausoleum.
Belonging to another one of Timur’s sisters.
Ceiling
Nestled amongst the extravagantly tiled mausoleums are more modest ones belonging to unknown individuals.
The octagonal mausoleum
Mausoleum designed by architect Ali from Nasaf in the 14th century
Interior
Ceiling

Shah-I Zinda means “Tomb of the Living King”, and it is believed to refer to one of Prophet Mohammed’s cousins, Qusam Ibn-Abbas, who brought Islam to Central Asia in the 7th century.

Qusam Ibn-Abbas complex
We happened upon an imam reciting a prayer in the shrine, and it was inexplicably moving despite me not knowing what was being said.
View of the octagonal mausoleum seen from within.
Tuman Oko complex built by one of Timur’s wives.
Ceiling

If I had to pick a word to describe this place, it would be “Overwhelming”. The beauty is overwhelming, and the crowd is overwhelming. So piece of advice is to visit early in the morning before the tour buses arrive.

Having said all that, the most beautiful sight is still the Registan at night. So we made sure to visit it again on our last night.

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Unbeknownst to us is that there is a light show every night at unscheduled hours (can be anytime between 7-9pm), and we ended up catching one. What was really odd was that the entire narration was done in Mandarin. I searched online, and it seems like the show had been done in different languages, and it’s unclear as to why it was in Mandarin last night.

Here’s a snippet from the 30-minute show projected on the Tilya-Kori Madrasa façade.

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